GONG HEY FATT CHOY! Happy Chinese New Year!!
Chinese food is popular all over the world. From London to Los Angeles, Singapore to Sacramento, New York to New Orleans, and Melbourne to Montreal – but where exactly does “Chinese” food come from?
If you’ve ever read anything about the history of the Chinese diaspora, Chinese migration, or the history of Chinese food in various parts of the world, or how Chinatowns came into existence, you might’ve read the assertion, somewhere, that the vast, vast majority of food generally accepted as “Chinese” around the world today, actually only comes from one tiny part of the country!
But where does this claim come from? Where does the food come from? And how true is it, really?
Western Contact

The Port of Canton, Guangdong Province, China. ca. 1800.
Sailing from Europe or North America to China once took so long that Western contact with the “Central Kingdom” was once extremely rare. And what contact the West did have with China was often so limited, once they got there after an ocean voyage that took months – that most Europeans only saw a tiny, tiny fraction of what China was, or had to offer – in terms of food, or anything else, for that matter.
Starting in the 1600s, Europeans sailing to China, eager to purchase silk, spices, porcelain, gold, silver, ivory, jade, discount electronics (OK, maybe not the last one…) and tea were heavily regulated by the ruling Qing Government of the day. By order of the Emperor, all “foreign barbarians” were limited to trading in China, to just one port, in one province, as FAR AWAY AS POSSIBLE from the seat of Imperial power in Peking: The port of Canton.
This form of trade, known as the “Canton System”, lasted for CENTURIES! From the 1600s all the way up to the 1840s, and it was the Canton System that not only shaped how the West traded with China, but also shaped how the West was exposed to Chinese culture – linguistically, sartorially, and possibly most of all – culinarily.
Because Europeans and Americans were restricted to such a tiny portion of the Chinese mainland (really, just the port-area of the city of Canton), all their impressions of China, whatever they were, and whatever they encompassed, were limited to whatever they saw or experienced living in Canton. Any food they would’ve become familiar with, which was not their own, would’ve been Cantonese cuisine, and this shaped their entire understanding of overall Chinese cuisine.
Southern Chinese cuisine focused heavily on rice, and riced-based foods, while communities in the north relied much more heavily on wheat. This shaped the local cuisine more than anything else. It’s why Peking Duck, with its little fluffy pancakes, comes from the north of China, instead of the south. It’s why wonton and jiaozi, and other buns and dumplings, come from the north of China. It’s why rice-noodles are more common in the south, while wheat-based noodles are more likely to be found in the north. Since it was the southern, more rice-based cuisine that the vast, vast majority of Europeans encountered in the 16-and-1700s, this is why, even to this day, most people associate Asian food first, and foremost, with rice.
The Cantonese Diaspora
Along with the contact between the Chinese and citizens of the Western powers being mostly restricted to the south of China, in the areas around Guandong and Hong Kong, Chinese contact with the rest of the world also came mostly from the south of China. As this region was the only one which saw sustained western contact, any Chinese sailing to other places around the world, mostly came from Canton, since it was the one port at the time which was open to foreign trade.
In the 15-to-1800s, most of the migrants from China who settled in places like Indonesia, Singapore, Malaysia, Thailand, Hong Kong, the United States, Australia, the U.K., and even Canada, came from Canton Province, from Fujian Province, or from the island of Hong Kong itself. The Chinese ’49ers’ who came for the California Gold Rush, the prospectors who came to Australia in 1851, the labourers who built the U.S. Transcontinental Railroad – they almost all came from southern China.

One of the most famous foods from southern China – Dimsum!
Because of this, when these migrants settled in places like Toronto, Vancouver, Singapore, Malaysia, Indonesia, Melbourne, London, New York, and San Francisco, and when some started opening up cafes and restaurants serving Chinese food – the food that they prepared, ate, and served to Asian and non-Asian customers alike, was the food of their home provinces – Fujian, and Canton, and the island of Hong Kong. One of the main reasons for this (apart from cultural ones) was sheer practicality – the ingredients for most southern-Chinese cuisine could be found in most places on earth, or if they weren’t available, they could easily be substituted with a local ingredient, instead.
In this way, the “Chinese” food that most Americans, Canadians, Australians and Europeans ate for the first time in the late 1800s, or early 1900s, was almost all inspired by, or were direct copies of, the cuisine of southern China. The food, the language, and the names of the dishes all came from the southern part of China. This style of cuisine spread so far around the world, and became so well-known as “Chinese food” or “Oriental Cuisine”, that to a lot of uneducated westerners, they assumed that all Chinese food was like this, even though in reality, they were only tasting a small sample of the full cuisine.
So What IS Southern Chinese Cuisine??
So, what exactly is southern Chinese cuisine? What makes it stand out? How do I recognise it? Well – how many of these do you recognise?
Stir-frying? Barbecue Pork (Charsiu)? Fried Rice? Orange Chicken? Sweet-&-Sour Pork? Dim Sum and the ritual of yumcha? Mango pudding? Salt-&-Pepper Squid? Suckling Pig? Chow Fun? Wonton? Shaomai?
The list goes on…and on…and on! These are all dishes from southern China, and almost all from Canton, Hong Kong, Fujian, or other provinces nearby.
In recent decades, other types of Chinese cuisine, such as the spiciness of Sichuan, or the more wheat-based cuisine of northern China, has started becoming more well-known, but in general, if you’ve ever had Chinese takeaway, if you’ve ever gone out to a Chinese restaurant, if you’ve ever been invited out for yumcha for Chinse New Year or the Autumn Festival, or someone’s birthday or anniversary, etc…then you’ve almost certainly eaten the cuisine of southern China.
Sources & Information
https://www.tasteatlas.com/best-rated-dishes-in-south-central-china
https://www.chinahighlights.com/travelguide/chinese-food/eight-chinese-dishes.htm
https://greedysheep.co.uk/chinese-food-differences































