My New Pinterest Boards!

Pinterest is pretty cool, except that a lot of the photographs on there are pretty damn awesome. And my photography is, more often than not – not-awesome. On a good day it might be alright, but I’ve never considered my skills behind the camera to be anything worth showing off, or writing home about for any reason whatsoever.

Which is a shame.

A shame for two reasons:

One is that I like photography, however mediocre my own end products might be. And because…

Two, I like antiques, which are infinitely photogenic. I mean, they’re so beautiful that it’s almost impossible to take a bad photograph of one, provided that you have at least a basic level of photographic skill.

With this in mind, about two months ago, I set up my new Pinterest account and started uploading photographs. If anything, it’s made me up my game considerably when it comes to photography, although I don’t think I’d ever take anything which might even start to be construed as being ‘professional’ quality.

But, be that as it may, I decided that today I might be brave or foolhardy enough to share some of my latest photographic endeavours:

My Board on Antique Sewing Machines

My Board on Antique Writing Boxes

My Board on Antique Brassware

Feel free to poke around and look at the photographs I’ve taken and leave comments and feedback. Sharing my collection with the world is just as much fun as looking at it and using it.

 

 

 

 

 

“Why Salt and Pepper?”

I found this highly entertaining YouTube video this morning. Was uploaded a few days ago by the channel ‘It’s OK to be Smart’:

Highly informative and mostly accurate, EXCEPT for the part about Medieval cooks putting pepper on rotten meat. That has been a persistent myth for centuries. It never happened. It never happened because pepper in the Middle Ages was EXTREMELY EXPENSIVE. No cook who wished to remain in his master’s employ would dared to have wasted such expensive spices on meat already past its prime.

Other than that, a fascinating look into the history of salt and pepper 🙂

 

New Video: Victorian-era Lady’s Writing Box (1880)

Well over a year ago, I wrote this post about an antique lady’s writing box which I bought, and restored.

I’d been meaning to do a video about it for ages, but I don’t think I ever got around to it. I finally had some quietude today, so I cranked one out for the world to see. Here it is!

Feel free to post feedback here on my blog, or on my YouTube channel – whatever is more comfortable. Happy to answer any questions about it…Just so long as it’s not “Is that for sale?“…because the answer is no! Haha!

Here’s a few close-up photos of the box, in case I’m moving the camera too fast for you to see anything!

 

 

New Video: Antique Brass Binoculars

I wrote a post about this back in April of this year. Now that I have my YouTube channel up and going, I decided to make a video about it, too:

Should you want, you can read the original post here.

 

New Video: Antique Brass Telescope

I picked up this telescope at the local flea-market about a week ago. It was brown and ugly and dirty and only after extensive cleaning was I able to get it to look something akin to what it might’ve done when it was new, by now, probably well over 100 years ago!

Here’s a simple video I did about it:

I think it’s both a beautiful, but also practical, fun and useful item. So glad to have the chance to add it to my collection. It’s got a great, smooth action and wonderful optics, despite its minor flaws here and there.

 

An Early Birthday Present: A Silver Watch and Chain

For many years now, I’d wanted a silver watch.

Well actually, I’d wanted a gold watch, but I knew I’d never be that lucky. So I set my sights on a silver prize, instead. I did a bit of research, and then I started hunting. I’d managed to make a bit of money, and I’d had a rather significant cash windfall a few months ago as well, so I kept this aside as a watch-hunting fund. Some things were easier to find than others. Sterling silver watch-chains and the various fobs and accessories that hang off the ends of them were easy to find – any old antiques shop or flea-market usually had loads of these things. Since they’re extremely common, finding them at good prices was easy.

Finding the watch itself was tricky.

I love pocket watches. But they’re fickle lovers. They’re expensive and fiddly things. I resolved to have just two watches: My 1950s Swiss railroad chronometer, and one good-quality, solid silver watch. And that would be it! If I ever bought a third, one of the others would have to go.

Well I had about half a dozen other pocketwatches, which I never wore, or which I wore very infrequently. I decided that the sale of these watches would fund my silver watch hunt. So I did sell them, and made a sizable chunk of money out of it. With this behind me, I started my search in earnest.

The Finding of the Watch of Power

Antique silver pocket watches are surprisingly common. Probably because silver is cheaper than gold, silver was always used to make all kinds of things, and silver watches were very popular as timepieces and fashion accessories in times past. After much searching, and trawling through antiques shops and flea-markets, I started to get a sense of what I would have to pay for a good-quality silver watch, and I locked this away in my head while I searched.

The other thing I had to consider is what the cost of servicing would be. Antique watches need regular servicing (anywhere from every 5-10 years, depending on how often, and how, you use them), and that was something I had to remember in my budgeting. You can find the greatest watch in the world for $100, but if you don’t leave money for servicing, all you’re going to do to that timepiece is destroy it by running it dry, without oil, and without cleaning.

After much searching, I found a watch in the lower end of my price-range. I was able to chip down the price even further, and after examining it closely, decided that it was everything I wanted in a watch, and so bought it. Then it was off to the watchmaker for servicing. It took just over a month to get this done, but the watchmaker was extremely friendly and accommodating, and complimented me on finding such a fine timepiece! Haha!! Thanks, Phil!

Silver Accessories

One of the benefits of picking a silver watch over a gold one is that the tidbits and accessories that go along with them – chains, trinkets, fobs, etc, etc…are all much cheaper than the same items made of gold. A gold watch-chain of any decent quality is retailed at nearly $1,000. A silver chain, by comparison, can be picked up for next to nothing! The same goes for things like silver pencils, vesta-cases, and other accessories. There were so many of them made that excessively high prices just aren’t warranted for their sale.

With the rest of my money, I was able to buy chains and accessories easily, over the course of several months (bolstering my fund now and then with selling antiques), and now, only a few weeks before my next birthday, I think I can safely say that I have a pretty nice present assembled for myself! Haha!

The Watch Itself

The watch I purchased was made in Switzerland in the 1920s. The case was made by the A.L. Dennison Watch Case Co., and carries sterling silver hallmarks for Birmingham, 1925. The watch itself was retailed by the London jewelry firm of Bravingtons, and features bold Roman numerals, original blued steel hands, a 17-jewel movement and a swan-neck or whiplash micro-regulator.

After a thorough servicing, the watch now keeps great time, and I couldn’t be happier. When the watch isn’t being used, I keep it in its own little silver-faced antique watch stand – also from the 1920s:

Thanks to Philip Gore at Ferntree Gully Watches & Clocks for doing such a fantastic job on my watch! 🙂

 

Introducing My Pinterest Page!

Hello to everyone who’s somehow stumbled across my blog in recent days. For those who are interested in seeing some of my humble photography and pictures of the stuff I’ve collected over the years, then feel free to check out my Pinterest Page, and please – leave comments and ratings. it’s nice to know what people think!

If you’re trying to find this in the future, either bookmark it, or seek it out on my EXTERNAL LINKS page, which is on the left side of my blog. I update my Pinterest Page roughly every week, so there’s always something new (or rather…old!) and interesting, to look at.

 

New Video: Antique Brass Counter Bells

Showing off some of the gems in my collection: My Victorian-era brass counter-bells…

Feel free to head over to my YouTube channel by clicking on the video, and leaving a LIKE or a COMMENT there, and be sure to check out my other videos about the other antiques that have found their ways into my hands!

 

Selling Antiques Online – A Beginner’s Guide for Beginners

You’ve been collecting antiques for a number of years, and now, you have an impressive, extensive and amazing collection. It numbers dozens, maybe even hundreds of pieces, scattered across shelves, bookcases, display-cabinets, and tables all around your house, apartment, or particular room in your house. And you want to buy more stuff! But you don’t have the room. Or perhaps you want to make a hobby or a small business out of selling antiques?

Either way, you’ve decided that you want to start selling off your antiques online. How should you do this? What do you need to consider when you start? If this is you, then relax, and read on…

How to Sell?

Selling antiques online can be tricky, frustrating and boring, but also exciting, fun and enthralling. Which one it will turn out to be, for you, depends on how you go about selling stuff. There are probably loads of guides online telling you how to sell things successfully online; this guide is designed for the complete and total greenhorn, who hasn’t sold so much as a paperclip to a puffin before today. So, how do we get started?

What You Will Need… 

To sell antiques online, you will first need:

  • Antiques that you want to sell.
  • Knowledge about what they are and how much you can expect to sell them for.
  • A bank account which is accessible online.
  • An account or profile set up on an online sales website or group (Facebook, Gumtree, eBay, etc, etc. Pick the ones that work for you).
  • Knowledge of how much to charge for postage.
  • Knowledge of adequate packing procedures.
  • A decent camera, and knowledge of how to take good photographs.
  • Patience!

As you may have guessed from the list up above, a lot of the startup has less to do with what you have, and more to do with what you know, or what you will need to know, in order to begin. Get familiar with online funds transfers from bank-account to bank-account, familiarise yourself with your local post-office and what it will cost to post parcels of various weights to various locations around the country, or if you’re feeling bold enough – around the world!

Learn how to use your camera, and learn about the stuff that you’re going to be selling. If you want to make a successful go of it, then solid preparation is the key.

Keep Records

From the very start of selling, make sure you keep records. Postage-receipts, addresses, names, and a spreadsheet of every item you’ve sold. When, to whom, for how much, etc. If you become good at this stuff, you’ll be selling far more things than you’ll ever be able to remember. The last thing you need is for someone to pull a fast one on you, and you have no record of what happened previous to the sale. Keeping accurate records is essential to figuring out how things are going in the long-run.

Getting Started

Having decided on, researched, photographed, and priced what antiques you’re going to sell, it’s now time to start selling! Make sure that your bank account is one which people can deposit money into, and which you can transfer money out of, find a sales website that works for you, and start setting things up.

The first thing you need to do is to pick somewhere to sell stuff. Numerous free websites exist, such as Gumtree and Craigslist, etc. and this is a good place to start since it’s easy to understand and there are no hidden fees.

Another place to check out is Facebook. Facebook groups for the sale of antiques and collectibles are numerous and are scattered all over the internet. Just make sure that any groups you join are for your country! The people who run most of these groups are just ordinary folks like you and me, who like you and me, just want to sell stuff, make a bit of money, meet people, and see nice things. Most of them are friendly and casual places where people can make a quick dollar and have fun doing it.

Once you’ve sorted out your banking and payment details, your postage costs and the platform from which you’ll be launching your new commercial endeavour, the next step is to actually start listing things for sale! The fun part!

Listing Items for Sale

The first thing to do is to open a new listing or a new posting. A good listing should contain details such as what the item is, how old it is, important or special details, any flaws or damage, where the item is located (in case someone wants to pick it up personally), along with any serial numbers, model-numbers, or product-names.

Make sure that your listings have good-quality photographs which are clear, sharp and crisp. No blurriness, no lens-shake or anything like that. Make sure that people can tell clearly what an item is, and how big it is. Include measurements if you have to. And take photos of the item from as many angles as possible!

Last but not least, make sure you list the PRICE, whether this is negotiable or not, and how much the cost of postage is likely to be.

Then, you play the waiting game.

Patience

The most important attribute apart from honesty, that you can have as an online seller, is that of patience! Some items sell really, really fast, some can sit for months. My fastest selling item was a toy sewing machine that was sold in less than half an hour from the point of listing. My slowest item was a set of silver napkin-rings which languished online for half a year before they were finally snapped up.

Don’t lose heart. Refresh or bump up your listings from time to time, or offer discounts, and just WAIT. Sooner or later, the buyer for you will show up. Sometimes you’ll even get repeat-customers – and if you do – treat them like golden eggs – because they’re the ones who’ll give you the best testimonials!

Handling A Sale

Someone likes your stuff and they wanna buy it! Maybe it was that pocket watch, or the silver bowl, or the 1890 edition of Oliver Twist? Whatever it was, you’re about to make your first sale!

Alright, stay calm. Smile and do a little happy dance, and then get down to business.

After you’ve made sure that the person absolutely wants your stuff, you need to determine two things:

  1. How will payment be made? Paypal? Direct Deposit? Cash?
  2. How will he or she get the item that they want? Post? Delivery? Pick-up?

These are the things you need to discuss with your potential buyer. If delivery or pick-up is in order, then paying by cash is probably best. If you need to post the item, then you’ll need to decide whether they’ll be paying through paypal, or through a direct bank deposit. And you need to remind the buyer that there is also the cost of postage to consider (which is traditionally paid for by the buyer).

Make sure that you calculate the postage-costs correctly! What the item weighs is not what you’ll be paying in postage – You haven’t taken into consideration stuff like packing, wrapping, boxing and whatever else might be involved first! As a rule – always add 200-400g in weight to whatever the item weighs, when calculating the cost of postage.

An item which weighs 300g might cost $5 to post. But after padding, packing and boxing, it might weigh 550g. And packages over 500g might cost $8 to post instead of $5. That being the case, the price of postage should correctly be $8. If the item sold for $40, then the total price is $48.00.

These are the little nuances that you have to keep in mind! I got burned loads of times miscalculating the price of postage when I first started, and boy, does that ever eat into your profits! So remember to keep it in mind!

Also, if you’re accepting payment through paypal, remember that there are paypal fees to take into account (again, usually paid for by the buyer), or else you’ll find even MORE of your profit being eaten up in extra prices!

Take as long as you need to calculate the weight and therefore, the cost of postage, and any payment-fees, before tallying up the final result and giving the complete price to the buyer. If they agree, then arrange how you’ll get the item to them.

Will they pick it up or ask for it to be delivered? Where and when? How will you meet or stay in contact?

Will postage be necessary? If so, you’ll need the buyer’s full name and their postal address, and they need to send you proof of their payment online (usually in the form of a screenshot of the payment-completion page from their bank’s website).

Packing and Parcels

Once you’ve sorted out the price of the item, postage, and any extra fees, and the buyer has agreed to these, has paid, and has sent you their postal address, the next stage is to package the item.

If packaging the item for postage is necessary, there are a few ways to do this. You can either pack the item yourself in your own packaging, or you can use a box, bag or envelope supplied by your friendly neighbourhood post office. Which option you select is determined by the item in question, and the cost.

Post offices generally sell pre-priced boxes and envelopes or bags, whereby you’ll pay a fixed rate on a package, and can put into it whatever you want, so long as it’ll fit inside properly. Then you simply tape it shut, address it, and post it at the counter.

If you prefer a more individual and personal touch, there’s always the option of packaging your antiques yourself. Just keep in mind that if you do this, there are certain things you have to remember if you want the parcel to arrive safely at its destination.

Picking a Box

Once the sale is completed, the next step is to pack the item for postage. Start by wrapping it up with newspaper or bubble-wrap at least twice around the item, so give it some shock protection. Tape it shut and then find a box for it.

The box should be stiff cardboard, and should be slightly larger than the item you’re packing. You don’t want a box that’s too big, because the item will bounce and rattle around inside it, potentially damaging it, and you don’t want a box that’s too small – if something heavy lands on top of it, it might crush the box and the item inside!

Put the item into the box and pad it around with bubble-wrap or old, scrunched up paper. Then close the box and tape it shut.

Since most people will just use whatever cardboard boxes they have to hand (usually reused from something else), you might also want to wrap the parcel in plain paper before postage. This also keeps the exterior surface of the box underneath, clean, so that the recipient can reuse it for their own postage or packaging needs, should they want to. Wrapping the box also gives you a convenient place to write down the postal address, and your own return address.

Postage and Tracking Numbers

Once the item has been paid for and you’ve packed it safely, it’s time to post it. Take it to your local post-office and hand it in. It’ll be weighed and the price (based on weight) will be calculated. When you pay for the postage, you should get a receipt.

Make sure you keep this, as it’s not only proof of postage and price, but also, it should also have a tracking number. This is the serial-number of the receipt which is pasted onto your parcel when it is processed at the post-office. The tracking number (called ‘Item I.D.’ or similar) is also printed on the receipt given to you by the postal clerk.

Make sure you remember this, and pass the number onto the buyer, as this will allow you and them to keep an eye on the parcel as it is processed through various post offices during its journey. Every time the parcel is scanned at checkpoints, the tracking information is updated online. You’ll be able to see what progress has been made on the delivery, and your recipient will be able to check when the item will arrive at their home or business.

Online Sales – General Tips

If you’re selling antiques in an online social media setting, such as a Facebook group, always remember to be courteous and friendly. Word of bad experiences spread FAST on social media. All you need is one legitimately unhappy customer to screw over your entire reputation as a seller. So smile and be happy.

Be patient. Sales are seldom quick. Things can sit for weeks and months before they sell, but they will, eventually, sell. Just make sure you make a halfway-decent profit on them, that’s all!

You are the one who has to pack the item for postage. You are the one the seller will blame if the item is broken when it arrives, because YOU didn’t pack it properly, you numpty! So make sure you pack properly, and calculate the cost of postage correctly! If the buyer complains that postage is too much, then they’re not the buyer for you. Do not compromise on this – all it takes is one broken parcel to screw things over real good. Do not cut corners on postage!

Make sure you post clear pictures from varying distances and different angles, and be absolutely honest about the item and what you know about it. Remember also that a good sales pitch from a person who knows a lot about what they’re selling is more likely to succeed than a half-assed attempt by somebody who knows nothing!

You will occasionally meet people who for whatever reason, change their minds or can’t hold up their ends of the deal. Discretion and tact are vital in dealing with these people. Sometimes it is a real and honest mistake on the buyer’s part. They typed in your bank details incorrectly or something like that (it’s happened to me, so I know!).

On the flip-side of that – when you copy down their postal-addresses, make sure you do it properly and double check, and ASK the buyer if it’s correct. Never assume anything.

That said, sometimes you really can meet some people out there who insist on keeping sticks up their butts, and will tell everyone about it and let it affect everything. People who grumble and howl and bitch and complain are no fun to anybody. The less said about them, the better, and the less you deal with them – better still. If you have a particularly bad experience with a buyer, then if the power is within your grasp – you should report them to the relevant online sales authorities.

Last but not least – remember to have fun! Selling things online is a lot of fun! It’s thrilling being able to give people stuff they want at reasonable prices. It’s fun being able to play shopkeeper. It’s fun thinking that the stuff you don’t want anymore, will end up in the antiques collection of another person, and that it will be appreciated all over again with fresh eyes and new enthusiasm. So go forth and conquer!